I’ve been noticing all the things here that both the same and different over the last while.  When I first got here, the differences were starkly noticeable.  But over time, the differences fade into the background of the things you do everyday.  It’s amazing quickly we acclimatize to things… 

School is a great example of this.  One of the differences that struck me right off is that here the toilet paper is kept in the classroom and given out in small amounts when a student has to go to the bathroom.  This is because if it were left out it would be immediately stolen.  After two and a half weeks, I don’t even notice that when a child asks to go to the toilet, I immediately fetch them toilet paper. 

Another difference is that because the so few students pay their annual fee, the teachers must pay for the privilege of photocopying.  It’s not a lot, but I can’t imagine paying for photocopying as a teacher!  We photocopy so much!  The teachers I’ve spoken to are irritated but resigned to this practice.

Perhaps most noticeable is that when you walk into a classroom here there is the smell of unwashed bodies.  Again, this was something immediately noticeable my first few days and now I barely notice at all.  Students will wear the same thing to school day after day, week after week.  I have no idea how often things are washed, but I would hazard a guess it’s not consistently.  Many of the children smell of smoke from the fires used to warm their small homes. Runny noses, hastily wiped with hands and sleeves, are everywhere.  I've made it a mission to get the kids to use tissues, but I think it's a lost cause...

I will admit to an initial distaste to this lack hygiene.  I am so used to daily showers and to avoid things and people perceived as dirty.  I am not proud of this form of judgment, but there it is.  I think most people privileged enough to have clean water to bathe in regularly would feel the same way.  My pale skin and “soft, soft hair” (as they call it) fascinate the children.  They constantly want to touch me.  If I’m ashamed of my initial reaction to “dirty,” I’m proud of the fact that it held up for only about 3 seconds when I came face to face with my students.  With an internal shrug, I gave both myself and my heart to the children society ignores.  I figured if I got lice from hugging a child who needed, then it was a minor discomfort on my part.  Compared to the smile of a child with HIV who is so grateful to be embraced, debugging my hair seemed trivial.  (Luckily, and maybe miraculously, lice isn’t a problem.  At least, not at the moment, anyway.) 

As I walked home yesterday, I came face to face with another difference.  In the meridian of the highway, with cars zooming by on both sides, there were goats inexplicably grazing.  I’ve gotten used to seeing odd and random things in Africa, but this was odd enough to cause me to get my camera out and snap a picture. 

Just in case anyone was wondering, I'm going to end this post with a few pictures of where I'm staying. 

I have had some hard experiences the past few days.  I mentioned before that we are openly encouraged to hug, hold, and play with the children.  One of the greatest gifts we can give them is the physcial attention they don't get anywhere else. 

While the other volunteers happily throw and lift the children, much to their delight, I tend to be quieter.  I always have one or two or three little ones who seem to want nothing more than to be quietly snuggled.  Two days ago I met Roxanne.  She's in grade 2.  She wandered up to me almost shyly and I opened my arms to include her in the small group of kids who were surrounding me.  She rushed in and pressed herself close. 

One of the children asked if we could sit (they love this because then there's a lap to climb onto).  I agreed and we found an out of the way spot.  Roxanne immediately crawled into my lap, wrapped her arms around me, and pressed her cheek into my neck.  Another little girl curled up against my side and a third started playing with my hair (which is another favourite thing to do, luckily lice isn't a problem...). 

We sat quietly and I noticed Roxanne was shaking.  I peeked at her face and she was weeping.  Not loudly or noticably, just gently crying.  I asked what was wrong and she just buried her head further.  I spent the next 20 minutes rocking her while every now and then she would squeeze me and I would hug her back. 

I still don't know what was wrong.  She seemed to need a safe place to be and I'm glad I could be there for her.  I know very well the feeling of being overwhelmed with emotions when you feel safe.  But that this little girl's safe place was in the arms of a stranger breaks my heart.  She didn't come back to find me yesterday or today and I can't stop thinking about her. 

Today was interesting.  We had a dentist come in to speak to the children about a 6 week program that will be giving dental assistance to the students.  She was there to help introduce the whole idea of a dentist because most of the children will never have seen one before.  Sadly, a great number of these little ones have horrible teeth, riddled with cavitives, blackened, and falling out.  Many have their adult teeth grow in already decayed. 

This event led to a discussion with the teacher that caught my attention for a number of reasons.  She was telling me how she wanted the students to know that they were fortunate to be receiving dental care like this, that it was special because most people have to pay to see a dentist. 

The students receive a lot in the way of help.  The school will feed and clothe them, and with programs such as this dental one, they also receive a lot of additional care from concerned people (inculding me) who volunteer their time.  Sadly, as the teacher pointed out, this can lead to an expectation of being given things, both by the student and their family.  It strikes me as having some of the same problems our Native Reserves have in Canada.  When everything is given, without having to be earned in some way, does it have value? 

The teacher pointed that yearly school fees here are $80 Rand.  That's a about $11 CDN.  She said that even the families that are able to pay often don't, because they know they don't have to.  Familes won't feed their children, because they know the school will.  My teacher was concerned because she feels there's a problem when people are dependant on handouts and she's worried the current system only encourages this dependancy.  I'm not sure what the answer is, but it did give me something to think about. 

Getting to know these children, learning about their lives, I'm struck by how deep the desire to help runs.  These little ones have so little and are living in situations no child should have to endure.  That there is the potential for such well intentioned help to lead to additional problems was an issue I hadn't considered.  I have the feeling that I will be thinking about this a great deal over the the next while.

Sorry, I don't mean to post more than once in a day but I wanted to address a few more questions that had been asked before they get lost in the shuffle.

My cousin Erin works with some amazing people at Golden West, which is a personal care home in Winnipeg.  The residents have been following me since the beginning and I appreciate them very much. 

One resident asked what the locals wear here.  That very much depends on where you are.  In Cape Town the people dress much like you'd see in any city.  In the townships, clothes tend to be well mended and worn.  Several of my students wear the same thing to school every day.  They will wear their clothes until they quite literally fall apart. 

I've also been asked about the weather here.  Right now it's winter.  I always have to snicker at this.  They have a very different concept of "winter" in South Africa.  At night it will drop down to around 5-10*C, and during the day it will warm up to somewhere between about 10-20*C.  Most of the time I'm wandering about in a t-shirt or a sweater if it's chilly.  It feels a little like Canadian spring or fall. 

Thank you to everyone who is taking the time to read my blog.  Sharing this adventure makes it feel so very special.  And knowing there are people who care and love me is giving me the strength to face the hard days, when my heart wants to break for my students.  I appreciate you all very much.

Sorry for not posting over the weekend.  When you're out and about it's hard to be able to get to the internet cafe during the daylight hours.  (They aren't kidding about it not being safe to walk around at night.) 

This weekend I went into Cape Town in an attempt to go to Robben Island only to have it canceled due to wind.  So we re-booked for next weekend and did the Two Oceans Aquarium instead. (Pictures from the Aquarium and from Cape Point are both up in the new "Pictures (2)" section.)   On Sunday we hired a car and did the drive up to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, which is the most South-Western point of the African continent.  This wind-battered tip of land that ventures out into treacherous seas has some of the highest sea cliffs and freshest air in the world.

To be honest, Cape Point was on my "if I have time" list of things to do.  I can't believe I almost missed it.  It was about a 45 minute drive from Muizenburg and then a good hike up to the viewing platform and lighthouse.  But it was so amazingly worth it!

After viewing Cape Point, we did the hike across the top of the mountain to the Cape of Good Hope.  You would never find a trail like the one we followed in North America.  While there were stairs and paths in places, at times the path ended and you skirted right along the sheer edge of a cliff, or up and over boulders.  There were no hand rails and many times the wooden path that was there was unsteady.  Still, it was a hike filled with some of the most breathtaking views I have ever experienced. 

About half way through, we came to a secluded beach that you could get down to via a giant stair case and over a large sand dune.  Of course we went!  By the time we made it to the Cape of Good Hope my legs were shaking, I was exhausted, and I had a delicious feeling of peace in my heart.  I always feel peaceful when I'm near the ocean, and this was no different. 

I was a wonderful and delightful afternoon, and I'm so very glad I made the time to go.  :)

This is Keesha.  She's the little one I mentioned yesterday who lives with her father, brothers, and uncles.  The teacher is suspects she's in a vulnerable position...

This is Portia.  She is 9 years old and has just started school this year.  After her father died of HIV/AIDS, her mother moved up and down the coast with her so she never had a permanent home or was able to attend school.  Recently, her mother gave birth to a brother who passed away within a few months, before mum also died of HIV/AIDS.  She now lived with her grandparents and is attending school for the first time. 

She is shy and cautions, but has gradually offered smiles and hugs.  Today she gave me a drawing that said, "I love you Brandy.  From Portia."  (The kids call me "Teacher Brandy.")  She is always helpful to her teacher, who has come to rely on her a fair amount in the classroom. 

Emihle took an immediate liking to me, holding my hand and snuggling up from day one.  She is warm and kind to her classmates, though academically she is struggling.  Emihle has 5 sisters and one brother, she lives with her mom and dad in Capricorn Township.  Today she told me about how at home, when it gets dark, her family locks themselves inside to avoid the men in cars with guns who shoot at night.  Gangs are a terrible problem in the townships and many children a fearful of them.

This little guy astounded me and stole my heart when he walked to the front of the room and started to sing.  (I have a video I'll try to post.)  From this little boy came an amazing voice, strong and beautiful. 

Xavier is HIV positive.  When his mom found out, she gave him away.  He now lives with the parents of another student and his future is very uncertain.

These children love to talk about their lives, to have someone be interested and wanting to listen.  Learning about these little ones, seeing them smile and laugh in spite of situations I find shocking and disturbing, makes me feel so humble.  You hear of stories like these every day.  But to hold the child who is scared to sleep at home, or cuddle a little boy who wasn't wanted by his mother because he has HIV makes everything so very real.  I can guarantee my heart will never forget these children.

This will be another shorter post.  Now that I'm through the initial whirl wind of arriving and finding my feet, I've been taking the time to talk to my students to get to know more about them and their lives.  This is a big part of why I came, so I'm enjoying it rather a lot.  I'm looking forward to sharing a few of these stories with you.

Today I took a small group of grade one's outside for a break, leaving a smaller group for the teacher to work with.  Because there's no kindergarten at my school, the very little ones simply do grade one twice.  This means grade one has quite the range of ages with students being anywhere from 4 - 9.  (I'll tell you about the 9 year old in my next post.)

One of the most valuable things the volunteers contribute is physical attention.  These kids don't receive the physical affection in their normal lives and it's easy to see that they crave it.  The boys want to rough house and interact with our male volunteers, the girls want hugs, and the little ones will hang off the adults, desperate for attention.  We're openly encouraged to play, hug, hold, and love our students. 

Anyway, one of the little ones I took out today was just drooping with sleepiness.  The other children had a ball and were all involved in some game of their own invention.  But this one little girl was just quietly leaning against me.  I scooped her up into my arms and she immediately tucked herself around me and fell asleep.  I held her the entire time we were outside and then carried her back in, waking her just before we got to the classroom. 

When I mentioned her to the teacher, I found out her mother had recently passed away.  She lives in a home with her father, brothers, and uncles.  Though nothing was said, I got the impression this little one is very vulnerable in her home full of men.  In the words of the teacher, "It was probably the first time in weeks she's felt safe enough to really sleep."

As I went to excuse myself for a few moments, the teacher quietly handed me a tissue and muttered, "I know."

Sometimes learning about people isn't easy...

Today I didn't go to school and stayed home in an attempt to get better.  This was only partly by choice.  Despite sniffled protests that I was "find!" I had enough people tell me to stay home that I actually listened.  I spent the day napping, reading, and finishing the editing of my safari photos, which are now up in their own section. 

Plans for this weekend include a second trip to the European Food Market (Mmm!), Robben Island (Where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated), and Table Mountain.  So long as I can breathe by then... 

I miss my students and am looking forward to being back tomorrow!

Yep, I came half way across the world to catch a cold.  BLEH.  In reality, this is not unexpected.  I think every other student here is sick with something, and sanitation isn't really up to North American standards.  I've been washing my hands constantly, but I tend to catch everything anyway, so here I am with a cold.

Today my grade one teacher wasn't here.  There's no substitute teachers here, so when I teacher can't make it they take all the students and shuffle them into the other classes.  When you consider how over-full these classes are to begin with this can be an...  interesting proposition. 

I spent the day with the grade 5's and got to see another side of education here.  The grade 5 class reminded me strongly of school 100 years ago.  This teacher had full control of her 38 students.  When work wasn't complete or correct, she had a stick to strike the palms.  When disappointed in something she had the student stand while she read the work out loud and classmates laughed.  Students who had failed to complete their homework were made to write "I will always complete my work" 50 times during break only to see their writing torn up in when then were finished.  I may sound like I'm judging here, and I'm trying hard not to.  To me it seems harsh and old fashioned.  (And I cannot imagine hitting a child!)  But I don't want to be that person who shakes their head in condemnation because things aren't the way I think they should be. 

Anyway, I apologize for the short post.  As I said, I'm not really 100% at the moment.

For no other reason than that I think they're pretty, here's a few pictures of the beach that is a short 5 minute walk from the flat I'm living in.  Agatha Christie used to come here to enjoy herself.  It's too cold for swimming right now, but there are still surfers out there, enjoying the waves on a good day.

I want to take a minute to answer the questions that have been asked in the comments (I read every comment and appreciate them very much!). 


How many countries are represented by the volunteers?

We have volunteers from Canada, the US, France, England and Ireland at the moment.  There will be a new group in this weekend, as the program accepts volunteers every second Monday.

Where the people get their food and supplies from for everyday living?

The people in the townships will get their supplies from almost anywhere.  The more wealthy (by comparison) can buy food and supplies from any of the little shack-type stores in the township itself.  The township really is a community, with stores and businesses, and people will live their whole lives here.  The poorer will scrounge for what they can find, beg on the street, or dig in the trash.  For many of the children, the only meals they eat are at school.

Is South Africa is still very segregated or if things have changed to the point where the country is more integrated now?

While apartheid is over, there is still a strong racial divide here.  The townships are nearly all black or coloured people and the more established communities in the city are still predominately white.  However, in the newer developments and around the universities you are seeing a mix of all different people. 

If there are any other questions, please ask and I will do my best to answer or find the answer. :)

On Sunday I did one of the most amazing things, I went on safari.  More specifically, I went on a game drive as "safari' actually means to see nature by foot, though it's come to mean any viewing or hunting nature expedition.

We were picked up at 6 am to drive to the reserve, fed a wonderful breakfast, and then taken out to see the animals.  It was a rough, bumpy ride in a large open jeep with no seat belts.  But our guide assured us he would stop if we fell out, so long as there were no predators around. 

I took hundreds of pictures.  I don't have them edited down yet, so they aren't ready to be posted in the pictures sections, but here's a taste of what I saw:

I didn't post pictures of all the game we saw, and there a some stunning shots of the larger animals that I'll post once I've edited them down a bit more.  We were at times within touching distance of the animals, and in the case of the lion cups, literally so.  (One of the cubs bit the fingers of a volunteer!)  We also had to high tail it when an elephant felt we had gotten to close and mock-charged us to tell us to move along.  It was an awe inspiring, amazing experience that will be with me for a long time.